f4f3: (Small island)
[personal profile] f4f3
Just back from the tiniest restaurant I've been in since I was last at The Wee Curry Shop in Garnethill. The Seafood Temple has 18 covers. 20 if they use the prep table. The building has some history - it sits at the southern tip of Oban Bay, on the Gallanach road, and when I say it sits on the bay it's a length of grass away from the shore. One site I consulted says it used to be a coastal lookout. Another that it was a public convenience. Both are right.

John Ogden acquired it a few years ago, and set about transforming the place. He used local craftsmen, and wood from his own land. The entire frontage is glazed, and two tables are built around concrete pillars. The kitchen is tiny, and we shared a table with two strangers.

John isn't the easiest chap to get on with. Caledonian Macbrayne, who have a monopoly on ferry routes in the Western Isles, have been trying to close down the seafood shack he owns on Oban Pier for at least 10 years, and they've used every trick in the book to do it. He's not budging. I guess being a fisherman makes you a bit slow to quit, even when you hit rough seas. Espescially when you hit rough seas.

He sources all the produce for the Seafood Temple, cooks most of it, and comes round every table with the order slips to check how the food went down. After our meal tonight I asked to shake his hand.

So, what did we have? The menu is hand written, with about half a dozen regular dishes and two or three specials. I liked the look of their surf and turf - I'd never seen it made from half a lobster and half a loin of venison, you see. That came in at £15 by the way.

We asked for the special, the seafood platter for two.

After a taster of the salmon he smokes in his own kilns, and a couple of clams, we were brought half a dozen oysters, 3 cooked, 3 raw. unblinkered raved about the balsamic vinegar and shallot dip. I enjoyed the ones swirled in garlic butter.

Once they were gone (30, maybe 40 seconds) the platter was brought, and the waitress explained that they'd brough the oysters first since there wouldn't have been enough room on the table for both. She was right.

On the platter were:

5 langoustines
4 scallops on the shell (2 in garlic butter, 2 in mornay sauce) with the corals intact. They were every bit as sweet as the ones he serves in the shack, by the way
3 crab claws
Smoked salmon
Hot smoked salmon (almost honey roast, creamy, melt in the mouth)
Some other white fish, smoked,
Roll mop herring
Clams
Cockles

Oh, and a whole lobster.

With asparagus (which unblinkered spared me from) mashed potatoes and (because I asked for them) roast spuds too. Bread and butter, two baskets worth.

The sheer quantity of food would have had a quality of its own, but everything on that platter was of top quality. Someone told me that nothing on the plate had been landed more than five hours ago. We were introduced to our lobster before they cooked it.

John explained that we'd had the last of the langoustines, and as he did a trawler came gliding up the the channel outside - he grinned and said he'd run down to the peir and find out if they had some for him - I don't think the captain would refuse him.

The bill, when it came with free glasses of port, seemed ridiculously small. I've paid twice what it was for meals half as good.

I honestly think it was the best platter I've ever had, and one of the top five meals, ever.

If you're going within 50 miles of Oban this year, pick up the phone now and reserve a table.

That's +44 1631 566 000



Date: 2009-02-28 10:34 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] parthenia14.livejournal.com
Ummmmm *lipsmacking*


Ommm nommm nommm

Date: 2009-02-28 10:34 pm (UTC)
white_hart: (Asparagus)
From: [personal profile] white_hart
It sounds gorgeous, although I find it a little odd that a restaurant specialising in local seafood would have asparagus at this time of year...

Date: 2009-02-28 10:35 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nicnac.livejournal.com
Wow, never mind if we're in the area, once we're back in funds we'll make a special trip - I take it they do fish dishes too, as J doesn't eat seafood?

Thanks for sharing!

Date: 2009-02-28 10:39 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] unblinkered.livejournal.com
I can confirm that the asparagus was not the highlight of the meal. The leeky mash was yummy, though. And the seafood was divine!

Also? The oysters with a balsamic and shallot dressing were a revelation!

Date: 2009-02-28 10:43 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com
And fish aren't seafood? ;-)

Yes, lots of fresh fish too.

Oh, and my old dive master from Puffin dive centre came in - it's a couple of miles along the road, and a brilliant place. Great wreck diving, good facilities, and their own boats...

Date: 2009-02-28 10:43 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com
Next time...

Date: 2009-02-28 11:13 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] deililly.livejournal.com
*tries not to dribble on laptop*

Date: 2009-02-28 11:19 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com
I thought you'd learned not to do that ages ago...

Date: 2009-02-28 11:21 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] deililly.livejournal.com
One step forward and a seafood platter back...

Date: 2009-02-28 11:23 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com
Ah well, at least you can still walk and chew gum at the same time. You can do that, can't you?

Date: 2009-02-28 11:26 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] deililly.livejournal.com
Never tried...

Date: 2009-03-01 01:26 am (UTC)
ext_14590: (Draco's Not Impressed)
From: [identity profile] meredyth-13.livejournal.com
Oh, that's makes me so SAD! When we were planning our trip I even re-arranged our days to be in Oban when the Temple was open, and the night we went there they had had some sort of thing happen and just didn't open - even though they were supposed to. *cries*

We had a nice-ish dinner back in the centre of town, but nothing like the feast you've described, and we paid a hell of a lot more for it.

*wibbles*

Bugger it!! I simply have to get back to the UK soon. *makes determined foody face*

Date: 2009-03-01 02:13 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] clanwilliam.livejournal.com
*whimpers*

Wanna go, wanna go!

Have just checked Google Maps and clearly the next time we're visiting herself in Dumfriesshire, we shall clear a night and book a room in Oban and go there.

Date: 2009-03-01 10:32 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nicnac.livejournal.com
LOL! Nothing like viewing the menu.

Congrats on your victory yesterday, btw, great score! I missed it because I didn't get home until 5pm, but I hope it was better than the Ireland v England game...

Date: 2009-03-01 12:09 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com
The score could have been much better - we were very close to putting it up into the 40's. Not a great game, technically, but much better spirit.
I watched a 5 minute highlights package of the Ireland v England game, and thought it was padded out by about four minutes thirty...

Date: 2009-03-01 12:11 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com
Oh, I'm sorry - my cottage is 40 miles away, and I still have only managed to get there once since it opened. Will definitely be back in the Summer, though, so if you want me to book a table for four...

Date: 2009-03-01 12:12 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com
An excellent idea - the Columba Hotel isn't the closest, but it has deluxe doubles with breakfast and a sea view for £89. OTOH, the cottage is cheaper, and I'll volunteer to drive.

Hah!

Date: 2009-03-01 12:56 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jmcl63.livejournal.com
Reading your facebook comment about this meal I knew I just HAD to know where you'd been. Now I know. Now I just need an excuse to go to within 50 miles of Oban.
cheers ;)

Re: Hah!

Date: 2009-03-01 02:08 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com
Dammit, I can run but I can't hide, huh?
We'll need to catch up for a coffee - especially since I'm thinking of heading to Prague at the start of April (funds permtting).

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