f4f3: (Looking forward)
f4f3 ([personal profile] f4f3) wrote2012-02-20 03:20 pm

Spring Is Coming...

So I booked my bike in for its post-winter service. This is a bit of a misnomer - the bike has done practically no miles since September or October, so what I actualy wanted was to get it a good clean, and have a couple of problems that were bugging me last Summer fixed up properly. So now I have a new chain ring, new brake blocks, and a sparkly bike (and another lock - I'm planning on doing some commuting and probably parking in town, and all the advice seems to be to use two different types of lock).

Weather permitting, I'll do some pottering around over the next few weeks to try to get back into some kind of condition for a proper run or three in the summer.

That means time to plan (actually, time to daydream, but I'm trying to dignify myself here).

My ambition for this year is to do some form of cycling on the Hebrides. I'm meaning that to be some subset of Vatersay, Barra, South Uist, Benbecula, North Uist, Harris and Lewis. The other restriction is to do as much of this as possible by public transport.

For obvious reasons, ferries will be one of the limiting factors, and althought there are a good range of these they do put restrictions on what I can do.

ETA: Hmm... Having looked at the ferries, there's a route that takes me in and out to Oban, and lets me use Uist as a base for getting to Harris and potentially even Coll or Tiree. It also allows those who can't cycle as far to join in :)

The classic South-North route would be Castlebay on Barra to Stornoway on Lewis, which is 132 miles. That's a distance I could do, in theory, in 2 days, which wouldn't leave a lot of time for dotting around, so put it as three. It would mean taking a ferry from Oban (which is on the train line from Glasgow) to Barra, and then another from Stornoway to... where precisely? The Cal Mac ferry from Stornoway takes me to Ullapool, which is very lovely, but has no train service. It may have a bus to Inverness, which does have a railways station, but does it take bikes? 

The alternative is to cycle only as far as Lochmaddie on Uist (about 60 miles) or  Tarbert on Harris (about 90 miles), and then take the ferry to Uig on Skye,  then cycle another 60 miles or so to Armadale, where I can get a ferry to Mallaig, which has a train station.

Total cycling distance would be about 120-150 miles, whichever way I do it. I'm a little wary of Skye -it has high mountains, and of Lewis, which could double for Mordor in bad weather. My next step is to start looking at ferry and train times, and at B&Bs. It feels like an easy four days, or a lest restful 3, or a head down and blast it 2, but I feel that in the islands, where I'm at the mercy of ferries, it might be best to call it 4 days and relax.

Hmm, off to look at ferry times and daydream, sorry, plan some more.

[identity profile] danieldwilliam.livejournal.com 2012-02-20 03:30 pm (UTC)(link)
I think it only possible to cycle on Lewis with the prevailing wind.

In fact, if you hold your elbows out to create a sail it's possible to break the speed limit whilst cycling with the wind on Lewis.

[identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com 2012-02-20 04:25 pm (UTC)(link)
I've heard that the prevailing south-north wind myth might just be that. Or it might be a myth that it's a myth...

[identity profile] danieldwilliam.livejournal.com 2012-02-20 04:47 pm (UTC)(link)
Myth or not - the wind blew me on to my arse.

There is currently very little mythical about my arse.

[identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com 2012-02-24 04:24 pm (UTC)(link)
You may want to join me on the Five Ferries Ride then...

[identity profile] danieldwilliam.livejournal.com 2012-02-24 04:28 pm (UTC)(link)
I'd be quite tempted actually.

How long are you envisaging the whole enterprise taking and you thinking long weekend timing or during the week?

[identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com 2012-02-24 04:38 pm (UTC)(link)
The five ferries will be a one day warm up to doing the Hebridies - Train from Glasgow to Ardrossan, ferry one to Arran, up to Lochranza, ferry two to Skipness, Skipness to Tarbert, ferry three to Portavadie, up over the Kyles of Bute to Rub-A-Dub (or similar) and the shortest ferry service Cal Mac run to Bute, then down Bute to Rothsay and ferry five back to the mainland at Wemys Bay, for the train back to Glasgow.

If you wanted to join in, you could come across on Friday night, we could have a curry and a whisky or two to get in training, then you could spend Sunday recuperating before heading back in the afternoon/stroke evening.

http://www.fionaoutdoors.co.uk/2010/09/fab-scottish-cycle-routes-the-5-ferries.html

[identity profile] danieldwilliam.livejournal.com 2012-02-24 04:56 pm (UTC)(link)
Looks fun.

[identity profile] parthenia14.livejournal.com 2012-02-20 03:34 pm (UTC)(link)
Ullapool to Inverness isn't too bad a ride, although my memory may be dulled by the years.

Useful thread here - http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/a835-ullapool-inverness.7264/

I have always fancied cycling the outer isles - my grandfather was from Stornoway, and I've never been.

[identity profile] danieldwilliam.livejournal.com 2012-02-20 04:46 pm (UTC)(link)
I’ve been to Stornoway once, for a long weekend. The whole island of Lewis and Harris is fantastically strange and wonderful.

If you like black pudding or porridge it is the place to go and no mistake.

I vividly remember MLW and I falling in to conversation with a Gaelic speaking (former?) fisherman. Wandering the quayside utterly drunk he found MLW and I watching a seal in the harbour. “Fish eating bugger!” he cried, and then proceeded to regale us with tales of the “fish eating buggers” to be found in the Stornoway area. Seals, sea-gulls, other fishermen, foreigners (mainlanders I think, not non-Scots), the Captain of a nearby boat especially. He was talking far too quickly and drunkenly for my O grade Gaelic to keep up and I was getting only the swear words in English. Each anecdote was punctuated with a friendly punch of MLW’s arm, each one more vigorous than the last. I only noticed the punching when MLW overbalanced and we both nearly joined the seal in the harbour.

I also vividly remember driving up to the northern most end of the island. Stepping out of a car on a day which is hasn’t a cloud in the sky and the internal thermometer shows 28 degrees centigrade from the sun and discovering that it’s 7 degrees outside and blowing a gale is some experience. I was blown over and I had to crawl on my hands and knees to get back to the car.

The many posters protesting about the windfarm became deeply ironic after that.

The division between the utterly utterly flat Lewis and the hilly hills of Harris make one think really profound thoughts about geology.

[identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com 2012-02-24 04:29 pm (UTC)(link)
My abiding memory of Lewis (I've been twice) is wind. And the fact that the top bit is called the Butt.

I used to think that fishermen had supernatural powers to absorb alcohol without harm, then realised that they just die sooner than us. Of course, if I was out in a fishing boat in all weathers, I'd probably want to die too.

[identity profile] danieldwilliam.livejournal.com 2012-02-24 04:36 pm (UTC)(link)
After chatting to this chap I understand the whole Viking burial thing.

There was no way you could bury him or cremate him on dry land - he'd be a fire risk or more likely and explosive substance risk.

Better by far to have him go off out at sea.

[identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com 2012-02-24 04:39 pm (UTC)(link)
Aye, it;s the way he'd have wanted it...

[identity profile] helianthas.livejournal.com 2012-02-20 04:26 pm (UTC)(link)

Sounds awesome!! Wish I could join!!

[identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com 2012-02-20 04:27 pm (UTC)(link)
Don't see why not - just use your new passport :)

[identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com 2012-02-20 04:26 pm (UTC)(link)
I hate to tell you, but Stornaway is a bit of a dump. That's just my opinion, of course...

Have you been stalking cycling forums, then? The bus they talk about that one from Ullapool to Inversneckie is out of business, but there's supposed to be a replacement...

[identity profile] danieldwilliam.livejournal.com 2012-02-20 04:48 pm (UTC)(link)
I could live in Oban.

I went there on honeymoon.

[identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com 2012-02-24 04:30 pm (UTC)(link)
Oban is a lovely place. Lots of great food, great diving, and it's a train terminus AND a ferry port. You chose wisely, young skywalker.

[identity profile] danieldwilliam.livejournal.com 2012-02-24 04:34 pm (UTC)(link)
Yeah - good food. The seafood at Ee Usk on the harbour was lovely. By far the best seafood I've eaten. Quite a few of the other places weren't far behind but Ee Usk was a stand out.

I remember sitting in a hot tub drinking a whisky watching the sun go down over the kyle of (mmummble).

Oban is on the short list for my home in the country post winning Euro Millions.

Along with Stromness, Ainwick and Braemar.

I will, of course have a home in Wiltshire but that is for logisical reasons.

[identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com 2012-02-24 04:40 pm (UTC)(link)
I think you've missed your chance for the Seafood Temple, a unique and beautiful place that had the best seafood I've ever tasted, and some of the best chat.